Hermann Hill Inn
After a long drive, on May 19, 2011, Maralyn and I reached our central Missouri destination of Hermann. At our B&B, Hermann Hill Vineyard and Inn, when we entered our room and looked out, we were stunned by the scenic world below us. Even though we were two stories below the main floor of the Inn, we were still on top of a mountain sloping through vineyards to the valley.
Our view of the Missouri River below us was incredibly majestic. I thought of several folksongs that included in their lyrics, “Across the Wide Missouri.” Although river levels were high at this time of year, the water seemed peaceful and nowhere near the flood stages that were plaguing other rivers and parts of the state and country.
In the 1830s and other times, Hermann was settled by German immigrants. One can imagine how these sites, by the river and hills above it, must have reminded them of their recent German Rhineland homes. When they tested the soil, many saw that it was also conducive to growing wine, just as in Europe.
These immigrants put their wine-growing expertise to good use. Production of grapes grew steadily each decade. By the 20th century, right at the start of Prohibition, Missouri had become the second largest producer of U.S. wine. Storytellers say the streets appeared to flow like blood, as the barrels of wine were slit. This temporary end for the wine industry was a serious blow to the economy of central Missouri. Some cellars of wineries, out of desperation, grew mushrooms, which hardly served as a financial equivalent.
Today, even though California is by far the country’s top wine producer, Missouri has resumed a respectable place among our wine-growing states.
View From Our Room
Our room at the Herman Hill Inn was well appointed, one of eight on the premises. We made good use of our Jacuzzi tub, which was quite large and inviting. Waking up in the morning and gazing over vines that produce the grapes for Stone Hill Winery’s port was stunning. A member of “Select Registry,” the Inn more than measured up to the standards we expected.
Breakfasts at the B&B were delicious, with generous portions. The Inn provides six delicious selections. I enjoyed the signature French toast with a pecan caramel topping, and Maralyn savored the cheese strata with mushrooms. On the second day, we made use of an early serving of a continental breakfast with a parfait and fresh fruit, to aid in an early drive.
Each night, the B&B staff brought an excellent dessert to our rooms, composed of homemade cookies and ice cream with its own raspberry chocolate topping.
The Inn has a three-mile walking trail map or directions to walk to several vineyards. In-room massages are also available. Herman Hill has a large repeat business and it is easy to understand the draw.
Town of Hermann
The town of Hermann is close to the Inn and right on the Missouri River. Many buildings have been restored, so that the inner town has a charming, quaint atmosphere. We visited award winning Ricky’s Chocolate Box and I enjoyed a truffle, while Maralyn opted for what she says was the best pecan turtle she ever tasted. It was difficult to choose our chocolate indulgences. Later, we toured an old hotel, which was in process of being restored. Hermann has extensive antique shopping, housed in traditional old buildings.
Hermann Hill also has twelve Riverbluff Cottages, similar to condos, on the edge of town and the river. They are fully equipped and work exceptionally well for corporate retreats, as they have a conference facility next door. Breakfasts and evening snacks are stored in each unit’s refrigerator.
In keeping with the close-by river atmosphere, we both had catfish sandwiches for lunch in a local hangout, Simon’s on the Waterfront.
On our second evening, we visited the nearby Vintage Restaurant, located at the Stone Hill Winery. This winery is the oldest in the state, founded in 1847 and one of the largest, shipping 1.25 million gallons of wine annually by 1900. When touring the winery, it becomes obvious how old world techniques are combined with new technology. During Prohibition of the 1920s, its extensive arched underground cellars, known to be the largest in America, provided some of the mushrooms mentioned above.
In 1965, Stone Hill Winery was purchased by Jim and Betty Held, who undertook its restoration. Since 1993, the winemaking team of David Johnson, Shaun Tumbull, and Travis Harris has received more than 3,600 awards and international acclaim.
Dessert to our Room
The Vintage Restaurant itself provides a charming old German ambiance. My choice was Sauerbraten and Maralyn’s was German-style schnitzel, along with some Stone Hill Dry Vignoles (veen-yoole), a full-bodied white wine. Even with a hint of sweetness, its acidity provided a dry palate effect.
We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at the Hermann Hill and our tour of the Hermann, Missouri area. Although Maralyn and I are both originally from the Midwest, our eyes were opened by how much central Missouri has to offer. We could easily spend three nights in Hermann on a return visit.
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Freelance travel writer Norman E. Hill, is a member of the International Food Wine & Travel Writers Association. Norm focuses on travel, history, culture, and an appreciation of food.
Website & Email: NoraLyn, IFWTWA Profile, NHill@NoraLyn.com
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