Le Cuvier Small Lot Wines Deliver Big Taste – A Womens Wine Council Review

April 21st, 2012

Story and Photos by Linda Kissam

Le Cuvier Small Lot Wines

You‘ve probably heard the term “small lot wines” and took a guess that it refers to wine produced in limited quantities. While you would be right, there’s more to it than that. A small lot wine can be produced at a very large winery or a very small winery. As you can imagine, a wine that is made in small quantities is special. Obviously not everyone can taste these wines because there’s not a lot made, and the wines generally sell out early. From small or large wineries, the end product is generally remarkable and is generally defined as  1-300 case lots.

April 2012 Womens Wine Council

I tend to like small wineries, making small lot wines. A visit to a small winery often means there’s a good chance of meeting the owner and/or winemaker, which often produces a memorable experience. It’s often said that small wineries use less chemical and sulfide. Maybe – maybe not. I do know that small-lot wineries usually concentrate on the vineyard and the appellation where the grapes selected for the small lot wine is located. That’s a good thing. In small-lot bottling, the winery often notes on the label which vineyard the grapes came from. This is called a vineyard designation. It’s a sort of shout out to the grower who was responsible for these special grapes. You can be somewhat sure that a vineyard designated wine is going to be a bit more expensive – but definitely worth it. Once you find a vineyard you like, keep following it to see what Mother Nature brings to the table each year.

The April Womens Wine Council wines came from Le Cuvier Winery in Paso Robles, California.  Winemaker John Much sent over six very special wines for the Council to taste.  These wines were made in small case lots – about 250 cases or less, for a total of 2,500 cases total produced each year by the winery.  Can you say small-lot nirvana?  We did…again and again.

Carmen serves brownies to the April Womens Wine Council

The good news is that these were all unforgettable wines.  Each one a special gem.  The bad news; the winery is sold out of all the wines.  The pretty good news is that most of the wines (except the Syrah & Zin) can be purchased at Tastes of the Valley in Pismo Beach where almost EVERY wine in the house is available by the glass! That’s approximately 650 wines for your tasting pleasure.

My suggestion… most winemakers get better with each passing year.  Make sure you take time to taste upcoming vintages of the following wines.  The results can only be perfection in a bottle.

Wine Review

1. Rose ($28): Multi-Vintage Rosé.  Blend of Grenache, Counoise, & Mourvedre.  Notes of rhubarb, guava red vine candy, and raspberry.  Crisp and tart on the palate.  Certainly not sweet. Excellent with deep fried won tons, and mushroom toast points with mango ginger chutney.

2. Ultra Reserve Chard XL ($50) Bend of 2005 & 2006 vintages.  The color shocked us a bit.  We were expecting something overly oaked, but to our delight it was liquid gold with a touch of oak and a big juicy cream soda taste. This is a fat wine showcasing Crème Brulée & Curaçao, & sweet-bitter orange peel, pineapple & ripe mango with aromatic jasmine blossoms. Excellent pairing with the Curry Spiced Hummus.

3. 2007 Sangiovese ($50 ) This was my favorite  with its jammy raspberry and blackberry flavors and notes of fallen leaves and  still warm from the sun, and ripe juicy black cherries.  Excellent match with dark chocolate ginger bites, won tons, and mushroom toast points with mango ginger chutney.

4. Pentimento (Blend) ($46).  This was a killer match with Sundried Tomato & Pesto Goat Cheese Spread. Expect mouthwatering raspberries & black cherries, layered with the scent of dried aromatic herbs, & smoky tea. Lavender, jasmine, vanilla on the palate.

5. 2008 Syrah ($45): All of the joys of dark chocolate & purple violets, dense rich and a touch of earthiness.  Unbelievably good with Caponata – a Sicilian eggplant dish.

6. 2008 Zin ($38): Voted number one by the group this is spot on Zin with bright and fruity notes of raspberry, cherry and plum. Much ooh and ahhing by the group during the tasting portion. Great moans of appreciation when paired with Savory Bacon & Spice Dark Brownies. On a second round taste we chewed a spring of fresh mint which surprisingly went well with the Zin, reminding of us of the lazy days of summer.

Our mock cocktail of the evening was provided by Council member Laura Plant.  This time it was a gorgeous concoction of a lime base with fresh muddled mint, club soda, and Trader Joes Sparkling Lime Aid.




Bettina Doulton—From Mutual Funds to Mid-Coast Maine

April 2nd, 2012

By Maralyn D. Hill, The Epicurean Explorer

Cellardoor Winery

During 2009, I was fortunate to meet Bettina Doulton, owner and operator of Cellardoor Winery, located between Rockland and Camden, Maine. In 2007, Bettina purchased a 68-acre farm with 200-year-old buildings and now is well on her way to making a name for herself in the wine business. For me in 2009, to see what she had implemented with Cellardoor and what she had planned was amazing. Now, I’ll have time to meet her again at the Kennebunkport Festival 2012.

When I first met Bettina in 2007, I felt that she deserved an in-depth interview at that time, but it takes more than just two years to grow the business of a winery. Now, passing the five-year mark, she is still moving forward successfully.

Maralyn D. Hill: What inspired you to give up your longtime career, managing mutual funds, to owning a winery?

Bettina: I had loved my time at Fidelity, with a constant learning curve and opportunity to bounce ideas around with smart, interesting people. But I felt an incredible need to try something new and change gears after I had cancer. It’s hard to explain–but simply, my head was in a different place.

Winemaker Bettina Doulton

I always wanted to run a small business. As an investor, I analyzed other people’s businesses, but never sat on the other side of the table. So that’s the dream I chased when my cancer treatment was complete.

A friend knew the winery was for sale and off I went to see it. I walked into the barn on a cold day, December 2006, and felt really comfortable. I was inspired to change my life. With no due diligence, no knowledge about how to run a winery or any small business, I jumped into the deep end and started again. A wonderful mentor had dared me with his own life-changing bet and said, “I blew up my life, started again, and am having a blast. What are you going to do?” I followed suit.

Maralyn D. Hill:  When you purchased the property in 2007, how did you go about finding the right winemaker?

Bettina: The prior owner, who had started the winery in the late 90s, stayed as winemaker the first two seasons I owned it. He was great bridge, as I got my feet wet with the business.  Then, Aaron Peet and his wife, CC, both Mainers, found me. They were studying winemaking in Washington and came by to introduce themselves and ask about possible work opportunities after graduation. We stayed in touch and they joined Cellardoor in August 2008. I often thank the day they came visiting in 2007.

MDH: Having visited Cellardoor, I saw your obvious teamwork. Could you tell me a little about how you put such a good team together?

Bettina: I am thrilled to see you make this observation. I am really proud of the team here; creating a team atmosphere is a priority every day for me. It may sund overly simplistic, but I have two goals: Create a great environment for the CD team, so they are learning and proud of what they are doing; and beat our guest expectations.

I am constantly learning how to lead the team as well as I can–it’s a humbling effort; some days I feel like I’ve done well, others not so much. As a small company, it’s important that everyone feels a part of what we are doing and willing to help out beyond his or her respective “job description.” I am thrilled when that’s happening without pushback.

In putting the team together, I think it’s a combination of my finding people and people finding Cellardoor. Through that, we’ve ended up with a team that’s passionate about producing great wines and guest experiences.

Cellardoor Winery's Tasting Room

MDH: You also branched out to having a restaurant and cooking classes. How did this evolve?

Bettina: Everything here is an evolution. The goal is to offer a dense, rich winery experience in mid-coast Maine. Listening to our guests and coming up with our own ideas, we keep expanding what we offer.

Evolution of the food side of things started in 2008, as I started to get my arms around the wine business. We began with offering complimentary food and wine pairings on Sundays, to introduce our guests about how to pair our wines with different types of foods. As people expressed interest in learning more, we introduced cooking classes. Beginning last year, as we received an extension of our winery license, we began offering sandwiches, salads, and cheese plates, which people can enjoy with our wines by the glass. Cellardoor is not a full restaurant. Our offerings allow guests to relax and enjoy views of the vineyard– again, a winery/vineyard experience.

Our cooking classes combine hands-on learning and a served meal, paired with wine, of recipes learned during the hands-on segment.

As we go into this season, our menu will continue to expand.

MDH: What has been your biggest ah-ha moment since owning Cellardoor?

Bettina: I have ah-ha moments every day! Learning something new means there are always ah-ha moments. Recently, the moment that the plan for our “Sniff, Sip & Sample” experience for our second tasting room, the Villa, came together would be a big ah-ha. We are really excited about this and have a plan to make it come together for our guests. Now, we just need to execute.

MDH: What our your goals for the future?

Cellar Winery "Treasure", Blueberry Wine with Maple Syrup

Bettina: Back to the prior goals: Create a great environment for the CD team; and continue to strive to beat guest expectations. For the short, medium and long term, there’s a continuing focus to produce wines we are proud of and that are recognized for being really good, have our vineyard produce a commercial crop for winemaking, and continue to evolve guest experiences as a unique Maine destination.

Long term, my goal is for the core CD team to have an ownership stake in the future of the business.

MDH: How do you see Maine wine progressing in the next five years?

Bettina: The Maine wine industry is developing rapidly. There are now more than 25 licensed wineries in the state. I think the wine trail throughout the State can become a growth element of the tourism economy of Maine. Agri-tourism and farm-to-table trends are all favorable backdrops for this opportunity. We as individual wineries and as an association need to earn visitors’ respect/interest.

For Cellardoor, I hope our wines can be a strong part of the culinary scene that has exploded in Maine over the past 10 years. We need to earn a place at this table.

MDH: Kennebunkport is a good drive from the Rockland/Camden area. Could you tell me about your involvement in Kennebunkport Festival 2012?

Bettina: This will be our third year involved with the Kennebunkport Festival. It has grown each year. Maine Magazine invited us to get involved, having seen some of our events in the mid-coast the prior year and knowing we were interested in having people outside our immediate area know about our wines. Also, they knew our wines had improved.

Last year, we hosted a Tiffany-themed party–guests seemed to enjoy it. This year, we are hosting a larger party with a Maxim’s de Paris theme. It is coming together really well.

Kennebunkport is a decent drive from Lincolnville, but our wines are sold in wine shops in Kennebunkport and in areas south of there. We felt the need to take our wines and our guest experiences to them as an introduction. We met some terrific people at last year’s party and many of them made day trips up to visit us in Lincolnville afterwards.

MDH: Anything else of special interest you would like to include?

Bettina: With “Sniff, Sip & Sample” at the Villa, a rethinking of our tasting notes, and a new class called  Pairings 101, an intro class for food and wine pairings, we are trying to do a better job for our  guests on the food and wine pairing side of things. Again an evolution, but we are passionate about connecting for our guests the world’s food side with the wine world in a way that is fun.

MDH: Thank you, Bettina, I look forward to experiencing the Maxim’s de Paris event.

When you stop at Cellardoor, you may see Bettina doing just about anything from inside to running a tractor. It is worth the visit.

 

Photos courtesy of Cellardoor Winery


Muscat Makes a Big Come Back

March 27th, 2012

By Linda Kissam

Muscat Makes a Big Comeback!

It seems America’s sweet tooth is returning to the wine arena. That works for me, especially when we’re talking the Muscat grape. Small berried and golden, Muscat Canelli is desired for its intoxicating aromatics and ripeness. It’s a wine that has the unique characteristic of smelling and tasting just like the grapes. Think… a chubby glass of delicious summer.

Muscat comes in a variety of white and black grapes. The characteristic trait of the Muscat is its sweet, musky flavor. Muscat grapes are grown around the world in temperate climates such as Italy, France, Greece, Spain and California. It can be eaten straight out of hand, made into raisins, or my personal favorite… used to make a variety of fragrant wines. Muscat is grown around the world specifically for usein light and dry wines, low-alcohol sparkling wines, and sweet, late-harvest wines.

For years dry wines have been viewed as the “it” wines. But it seems Americans are sweetening their palates. Muscat is edging in as one of the most sought-after wines in the world. That’s a whole lot of consumers going to the sweet side. Muscat’s light white styles are drawing the attention of grape nuts not only for the mouthwatering taste of honey, peach and almond, but consumer-friendly price tags as well.

The 2010 Moscato Allegro ($10) is an excellent place to start on your exploration of Muscat based wines.  I like its fat sip of orange soda taste and honey and vanilla cream flavors; yet somehow the winemaker crafted all this into a lighter bodied wine. Not cloying, not sticky sweet. Someone also had their thinking cap on when they decided on a screw top closure for this wine. Simply grab the bottle for your next picnic or patio function. No worries on where the darn opener went.

Many of us still purchase wine based on the beauty of the bottle and label. You’re going to love the traditional, long and sleek ‘Renna Punto’ bottle used only for the finest Moscato d’Asti. Makes a great hostess gift. And while we’re at it the label is engaging as well. Smart marketing award to the producers of this wine.

For the more technical amongst us, Winemaker Mark Rasmussen tells us that he employs a combination of extremely cold and prematurely arrested fermentations to balance the varietal’s honeyed fruit notes with clean, crisp acids – producing a wine that, while lushly flavored, is light in body and refreshing on the palate. The Muscat Canelli grapes for this wine were grown at Cairn Ranch, a 40-acre vineyard site located along the St. John’s River in southern San Joaquin Valley where rich, fertile soils, combine with warm weather, create ideal conditions for promoting fully ripened flavors in balance with good acid structure. This is a 100% Muscat/Moscato wine with a light 7.5% alcohol level. 40,000 cases were made. This is a drink it now wine.  Probably not a wine to cellar, but that’s fine with me.

Serve as an aperitif, pair with your favorite foods or enjoy all by itself — the possibilities are as endless as your own palate and imagination. You can expect the ’10 vintage to be fat, fresh and spicy, offering exotic floral and fruit aromas evocative of orange peel, honeyed apricots and peaches. It’s a versatile beauty, working well with a hot day or a cold night. It is delightfully refreshing on its own (patio time, Jacuzzi, sipping with a good book) but also makes a wonderful complement to brunch, Asian food, spicy dishes, light but zesty salads and sweet and tangy sauces.


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