Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Washington, DC (Photo provided by Mandarin Oriental)

I have wanted to experience a Mandarin Oriental property for a long time, and I finally got my chance in Washington, D.C. The hotel arguably offers the best views in the nation’s capitol, as it is situated by the Tidal Basin overlooking the Jefferson Memorial and the Washington Monument. Located five minutes from the White House and 12 minutes from Ronald Reagan National Airport, the property is sizeable with 53 suites and 347 rooms.

Mandarin Oriental Lobby (Photo provided by Mandarin Oriental)

Compared to most hotel lobbies I have seen in major eastern U.S. cities, the Mandarin Hotel lobby is enormous. It is a marble rotunda, which leads to the Empress Lounge with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out on the hotel’s 5,000-square foot Asian garden next to the marina.

I was lucky enough to stay in a Tai Pan Club Premiere Water View Room, a 484-square foot room with a king bed and a great view of the Jefferson Memorial. My room and bed were exceptionally comfortable, and the spacious bathroom contained a large soaking tub, as well as a separate shower. I especially appreciated the fun perk of a 15-inch LCD TV in the bathroom.

Mandarin Oriental bedroom (Photo by Melanie Votaw)

The bedroom contained a 32-inch TV and entertainment system, and there were three telephones throughout the room. I also appreciated the complimentary bottled water and the in-room safe that was big enough to hold my laptop. Of course, bathrobes and slippers were provided as well.

Staying in a Tai Pan Club room allows you to take advantage of the private Tai Pan Lounge and affords you discounts on spa treatments and meals in the restaurants. My card key gave me access to the lounge, where snacks are available all day, and hors d’oeuvres and cocktails are available in the evening. I ate my breakfast in the lounge as well, which included a small sampling of eggs, meats, and pastries.

The highlight of my stay, however, was my dinner at Sou’Wester, one of the property’s restaurants. This one is helmed by Chef Eddie Moran, and I recommend that you check it out even if you’re unable to stay at the hotel. There is a very reasonably priced pre-theater prix fixe deal.

Mandarin Oriental bathroom (Photo by Melanie Votaw)

I started with the chilled iceberg wedge salad, which included cherry tomatoes and smoked bacon bits with a buttermilk dressing. I’m not usually fond of bacon on salads, but these were not your ordinary bacon bits. The breads brought to the table were biscuits and cornbread with honey butter. If you order this wedge salad, be sure to have a bite of cornbread in between bites of the salad. The sweetness of the cornbread nicely complements the flavors of the herbed buttermilk dressing.

For my entrée, I chose the grilled rock Cornish chicken “under a brick,” which consisted of olive oil braised spinach, smashed and fried potatoes, and Meyer lemon-rosemary jam. It was a relatively simple dish that was expertly prepared. For dessert, I was treated to homemade sorbets, and I enjoyed all of my dinner with my choice of wine, poured for me by the restaurant’s sommelier.

The Mandarin Oriental’s other dining option is City Zen, a Five Diamond AAA restaurant by James Beard Award winner, Chef Eric Ziebold. The restaurant’s Executive Pastry Chef, Matthew Petersen, has appeared on television’s “Top Chef Just Desserts.”

The hotel also has a 10,500-square foot spa with eight treatment rooms, amethyst steam rooms, sauna, ice fountain, vitality pools, cold plunge pool, 50-foot indoor heated swimming pool, and a waterside fitness center. A golf course is just five minutes away from the property.

Meeting facilities include an 8,300-square foot Grand Ballroom with 18-foot ceilings and no pillars, as well as several other rooms for large or small gatherings. While I did not have a reason to use these facilities, I was impressed to learn that a car can be driven into a loading bay in order to unload presentation equipment. Of course, a business center is also on the premises, and wireless Internet access is available throughout the hotel.

The Mandarin Oriental is a beautiful property that gives you a sense of spaciousness both indoors and on the grounds that is hard to find in congested cities. The service was stellar, and I cannot imagine wishing for more. My stay was a pure pleasure from beginning to end.

Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Washington, DC

1330 Maryland Avenue, SW

Washington, D.C. 20024

(202) 554 8588

The front window of Androuët fromagerie in the 7th

By Stefanie Payne

The culinary horizon in Paris is just different than that which is found in the rest of the world—the grey rooftops might as well be illustrations from the pages of the most beautifully illustrated book of Hansel and Gretel ever penned.  In no time or place was that fact more evident to me than when I walked on to a culinary walking tour on Paris’ Rive Gauche (Left Bank) as an afterthought on one drizzly afternoon.

This part of Paris is where the uber-fashionable shop for gourmet specialties to serve at their dinner parties.  This is where culinary dreams are realized.  This is where my palate would be cleansed with treats so indulgently pure, that I understood—again, and for the umpteenth time—why Paris is regarded as food mecca.

Le Comptoir des Saints Pères, formerly Michaud

The experience was four hours long—and four legendary specialty shops wide.  We began at Le Comptoir des Saints Pères, formerly Michaud, a tiny cafe with a long history.  A favorite of Hemingway and Fitzgerald who spent long days and nights writing here because it was less expensive than other cafés in the area.  In the time it took to get and sugar my café (espresso) and down it in one glug, the rest of the group of eight people were there.  And then our guide showed, emerging from the corner with a skip in her step and a smile on her face.  Each of us shook hands and walked on while she began to describe the significance of having a food tour in the 7^th arrondissement.  It is, after all, considered the chicest neighborhood in all of Paris.

Kayser Artisan Boulangerie (Bakery) in St. Germaine, Paris

Not five minutes later we passed one of my favorite cafés on earth, (La Palette next to L’Ecole des Beaux-Arts where I once studied,) and found ourselves wiping the rain from our feet on the welcome mat of Kayser: boulangerie extraordinaire. Kayser was relatively normal by American standards.  Plenty of pre-packed salads, sandwiches and the like for busy Parisians to pick up on their “lunch hour” (any hour, really) and to the right, a counter designated solely to bread sales.  We learned that Kayser had (more than once) earned the honor of creating the “Best Baguette” in Paris.  Our guide snatched up two baguettes, one standard, one artisan, and we stepped out of the door and walked on down the street.  She stopped and pulled one baguette out of her bag and cracked it at the center, like you might do to a Dungeness crab leg before slurping the meat from the cavity.  We looked on, as she cracked the second (the “real”) baguette.  It bent slowly like hardened caramel being pulled apart instead of snapping abruptly like the first.  She explained the difference between them (outlined in my separate article, “Good Baguette, Bad Baguette,”) and we each tore off a section to taste.  The “good” baguette was gone in an instant, the “bad” baguette quickly became pigeon food.

Our guide works with Androuët fromager to set up a store-front tasting for our group

We walked on excitedly to sample another favorite food to all, also expertly crafted by the French—cheese.  We were at Androuët.  To be honest, I am not sure what set this fromageri apart from her competitors.  For what I saw was like most other cheese shops—miles and miles (okay, just fifteen feet) of cheese, individually wrapped and lining the refrigerated shelves.  We gave our requests. Soft, hard, aged, mild, brie…  and my request, cheese with Périgord truffles.  Apparently, that was a decadent choice, for one of her eyebrows raised and I quickly understood that this may have been beyond the budget for the walking tour.  “I’ll pay for it,” I said.  I didn’t care, I was desperate for my favorite food laced with earthy truffle.  She arranged for it.  They paid for it.  And later, the other guests said that this was not only the best cheese of the day, but the best cheese they had ever had. Ever.  I thanked our guide.  We tasted the most classic French cheese, Comte.  Young, 5 Year, 10 year… all distinctly different from the last. We could have stayed there for hours.  In actuality, we stayed just one.  Then on to the next.

La Pâtisserie des Rêves, the “Pastry Shop of Dreams”

La Pâtisserie des Rêves, the “Pastry Shop of Dreams.” It was. The pastries were decidedly French, while the ambiance was almost sci-fi.  It reminded me a bit of Tokyo.  Clean architecture and crystalline bubbles that dropped from the sky protected these bright and shiny desserts that looked like baubles from a Tiffany store window at spring time. These heavenly, colorful, inedible things I thought!  I can’t even recall what we ordered or ate because the experience of seeking and selecting desserts from the glass cases almost out-shined to food. But in review, I recall the pastries just fine, and they are among the most delicious desserts I have ever been lucky enough to feast upon…. apple fritter something or other, and flaky chocolate heaven in a cup.

Chocolate Mousse from Chapon

Our last stop was at Chapon Chocolatier.  To begin, we learned that Patrice Chapon got his start in his father’s attic, and then soared on to make ice cream for the Queen of England.  Not bad for a handsome young strap from old Paris. His chocolates stood out most notably because of his use of innovative ingredients—wasabi, rosemary, and some spice I had, I think, never heard of.  I swallowed each bite as I viewed a large photo on the wall of dress made entirely of chocolate that I had heard of, showing at the 16th annual Salon du Chocolat in Paris.  Ruminating in the room was the impact of food on fashion, on the neighborhood, and the history of Parisian culinary pursuits and how they effected the forward launch of things to come.  We were sent off on foot with a paper cone filled with chocolate mousse.  We walked to a corner and entered a locked courtyard where we ate it under a beautiful oak tree that shrouded us from the rain.

Model Irene Salvador wears dress constructed entirely of chocolate made by Chapon, for the 16th Salon du Chocolat in Paris

As we said our goodbyes, something occurred to me.  I rarely join guided tours, absurdly thinking that it takes away from the “authentic” finds that strike someone on travels abroad.  But I am so glad I went… not only did it really enhance my trip, but also taught me my tour style: demure and informative, small groups, inspired guides, pockets of a city, and a desire to learn about secret treasures from people who really know—and want to teach—the qualities that make their region so special. I still think about that day often. And always think of how special Paris really is in all of her mind-blowing ways, and above all, insanely delicious is the food that almost personifies a region.

The Tour Operator: Context

Context Walking Tours (Multi-City)  |  Context Travel on Facebook

The Places

Tel: 01 40 20 09 39

Boulangerie Kayser‎

La Pâtisserie des Rêves
93 Rue du Bac
75007 Paris, France

Chocolat Chapon‎

Beautiful Singapore

By Norman E. Hill

Today, Singapore is an integral, prosperous part of Asia known as the Pacific Rim. This island state has about 4.5 million population (including about 3.6 million full-time citizens), comprised of about 77% Chinese ethnicity, 15% Malaysian, and 8% Indian.  A considerable portion of its land, around 20%, has been reclaimed from the ocean since the 1960s.  Even so, space is tight.  Most of its population live in apartments.  However, these are modern, functional apartments—call it Western-style in the best sense.

Primarily, the business of Singapore is just that: business.  In fact, it exists as the banking, finance, high-tech electronics and manufacturing center to the world.  In 2005, based on shipping tonnage, the port of Singapore was the world’s largest and busiest.

Its population is very well educated, and all ethnic groups seem to work together harmoniously.  While Malay is the national language, English is the first language of administration and communication.  There is a local colloquial dialect called Singlish, seemingly combining many elements of American English.

What to See

Many hotels in Singapore are new and ranked as “world class”.  Recently, the Ritz Carlton hotel in the city was considered to have the “world’s sexiest bathrooms”.  Touring those bathrooms will undoubtedly leave you in full agreement with that assessment.  Or for a more colonial ambiance, seek the world famous Raffles Hotel, where you will find fine dining, and the well-preserved charm of Raffles’ restaurant and bar (renowned for its “Singapore Sling” cocktail).

Marina Bay Singapore

Tourism is not the country’s largest industry, but it is significant and there are a variety of landmarks and sites for visitors to explore… such as the historic National Museum of Singapore.  It includes descriptions of Japanese World War II brutality, and how Singapore’s fortunes fell and rose again afterwards.  Then, on to the Harbor of Singapore, a stunning place always, specifically at night.  Its lit-up skyscrapers compare very favorably with those of Manhattan or another densely populated, tiny island, Hong Kong.  Boat tours day or night are available to travel all around the harbor.

On the docks, many new developments have occurred.  Restaurants and boardwalk entertainment are available for tourists interested in nightlife.  Extensive landfill projects have made it feasible to provide alternatives to busy, bustling daytime activities.  Legalized gambling with several new casinos started in 2005.

Singapore Airlines flies direct nonstop from several west coast U.S. cities, and eastward from inland cities across Europe, and there connecting east to Singapore. Its Changi Airport is consistently ranked as one of the world’s finest.

Government

The government of Singapore should still be considered authoritarian.  Dissent seems to be tolerated up to a point, but public speech is still limited.  Free elections have been held in recent years, and there are at least two political parties.

Lee Yuan Kew was Prime Minister of Singapore from 1965-1990, and, if benevolent to some extent, was still a defacto dictator.  Reportedly, he once described his country as a “guided democracy.”  He retired as prime minister in 1990 and all indications are that he has voluntarily relinquished his authority.

Therefore, today, the country seems a safe location for foreign investment.  Its business- friendly environment evidently influenced wealthy Hong Kong residents to move considerable capital over to Singapore, after the Communist Chinese takeover in 1997.

History of Singapore

Like the U.S., the country is indeed a “nation of immigrants.”  The British took over the island in the early 1800s, when it was a virtually uninhabited jungle.  They recruited a host of laborers from mainland China, to help build a settlement along a potentially great harbor.  Later, Malaysians and Indians also were recruited.  Initially, the British kept these ethnic groups separate to serve their own interests.

As the island grew and prospered as a trade center, it was designated a crown colony of the Empire.  Singapore had its share of colonial trappings, such as British race courses and the Raffles Hotel.

The Japanese attacked and invaded the country in late 1941 into early 1942. From 1942-1945, the Japanese occupation of Singapore was brutal to an extreme.  Not only scores of British war prisoners perished in camps, but Singapore residents (especially the overseas Chinese immigrants) were subject to widespread massacres.

After World War II, Singapore resumed its status as a British colony. It became self-governing in 1959.  After some Communist threats, an independent nation of Malaysia, including Singapore, was formed in 1963.  However, the rest of Malaysia felt considerable resentment towards the Chinese majority in Singapore.  Problems climaxed two years later, when Singapore was expelled from the Malaysian Federation and was left to function on its own.

In 1965, now independent and responsible for its own well-being, Singapore truly fit the bill of the “third world hellhole” described in the London musical.  Unlike the rest of Malaysia, the country had no natural resources, such as rubber or tin.  The Singapore harbor had been neglected for decades and was run down and polluted.

Prime Minister Lee saw that his nation’s sole resource was its people.  Therefore, he set out to increase the population’s level of education.  By draconian measures, the harbor and environment in general were cleaned up.  Systematic landfill programs were also started. Lee’s aim was to promote Singapore as a banking and business center.

From 1965 to the present, Singapore has pulled itself up by the proverbial bootstraps to achieve the status of an economic power house.  It trades actively with other Pacific Rim countries, the U.S. and Europe.  It has reasonably good relations with Malaysia, the nation of 20 million from which it was cast out 40+ years ago.  Because of the state of the world in general, and the fact that the western tip of Indonesia and 200 million Muslims are only 90 miles away, Singapore understandably maintains a defense force.

To summarize, the city/state of Singapore is a comfortable place in which to do business and a fascinating place to visit!

Chief Luciano Pellegrini, Valentino Las Vegas

I walk with my head tilted back and looking up, even spinning around to see it all; appearing as if a rube in New York City but in actuality, this is flat Las Vegas, Nevada.  The expansive ceiling above me is masked as a blue sky day and it is so realistic that I mistake a recessed light for the arc of a bird’s wing, if only briefly.  Walking alongside the Venetian Grand Canal replete with singing gondoliers, I am pulled into the experience of an array of shops, restaurants, performance venues, and casinos of what makes up the Palazzo-Venetian hotel complex.  After passing the human crush and hucksters on the Strip outside, I gladly succumb to the marvels of the Palazzo Hotel and the Venetian nested alongside.  As a mariner, it is as if gigantic cruise ships are breasted together in a landlocked moorage and provide all amenities for sustenance of passengers.

Four days at the Palazzo Hotel for a conference includes behind the scenes dining and drinking experiences designed to help me experience a month of residency.  I tasted the scrumptious one pound meatballs prepared at the Lavo restaurant, tasted fresh seafood at the AquaKnox, and enjoyed a multi-course offering of the best fare of Valentino restaurant served by Chief Luciano Pellegrini.  Valentino is sister restaurant to multiple James Beard Award-winner Piero Selvaggio’s world-renowned Valentino in Santa Monica, California.

I soon get going on my usual Mancation focus.  I notice things a man on vacation will enjoy outside of the casino and food or stage performances taken in with the better half of your team.

Wendy Hodges, Fusion Bar mixologist in the casino of Palazzo Hotel

Fusion Bar is a custom mixology bar located in the casino of the Palazzo Hotel.  The deal here is you think of something and they make a mixed drink that mimics the thought.  For example; mention vanilla, basil, and cucumber.  Not a likely combination, but back comes a mixed drink that involves these flavors and pleases everyone.  This is also an infusion bar, where flavors and fruits are blended over time in a container used for mixing purposes.  Wendy Hodges is the international competition mixologist that we found entertaining and she can mix an original Mai Tai from San Francisco plus tell interesting stories.

Don Julio tequila tasting at Canonita

Las Vegas is about adult entertainment and this also means fine spirits.  At Taqueria Canonita, I got to do a tequila tasting of premium Don Julio varieties, and scoop my fill of a fabulous guacamole.  Preparing the pallet for the next pairing means double up on the chips –  no washing away the taste here as in wine tasting, just eat and drink.  Following the tasting was a flaming shrimp dish tasting too good for words prepared by Executive Chef Reed Osterholt.

Reed Osterholt, Executive Chef, Canonita, prepares a tasty shrimp dish

At the end of my stay, I realized that I never had the time or inclination to leave the Palazzo Hotel.  Everything necessary to entertain me was here, as on a cruise ship, except the tour of the ship’s bridge with the Third Mate suffering my presence.  Once I remembered my cramped space on the cruise ship and its lacking internet in the cabin, I tuned in my favorite evening business show in my luxury Palazzo suite and temporarily forgot about my love of the sea.

The Evolution Pillow for travel (and more!)

From blowup to buckwheat, and all that fall in between, I thought I had tried all travel pillows. Some were better than others; none lasted long on my road warrior schedule. In general, their effectiveness was not worth taking them along with me on the road.

Then, I found one that actually worked and I love it – the Evolution Pillow by Cabeau. Made with “High IQ Dynamic Density Memory Foam,” it provides 360 degrees of support and comfort. It also compresses to half its size to fit into a draw-string bag, perfect for tucking into purse or briefcase when landing.  I am especially fond of the duplex slide lock toggle feature, which you can adjust for complete support. If you are one of those people whose head drops forward when you sleep on a plane, you can turn the pillow around and it will stay in place. The velour cover can zip off for washing and has a media pouch to hold an mp3 or cell phone.

And those are just the expected features!  It proved to be an unexpected savior when I had a migraine at home. I put the ice pack (covered with a wash cloth) on the back of the pillow, where it stayed in place while cradling my neck and allowing me to rest until that bugger was gone. Another unexpected and awesome suprise?  Think lumpy hotel pillows…  not a problem finding comfortable rest on the road, thanks to Evolution.

Back to its intended use: travel.  I’ve tested it five times and will continue to use it. With the Evolution Pillow, the little sleep I do get on a plane is now much more comfortable – it is well worth the little space required to stow it.  I simply won’t leave home without it!

Cabeau makes other innovative travel products. They have sent me a travel blanket to test. I’ll try it out on my next trip and am confident it will be wonderful for long hauls to Europe, Australia, and Asia.

You can learn more about Cabeau at www.CabeauTravel.com. The Evolution Pillow sells for $34.99.

Talbot County on the Chesapeake

By Steve Mirsky

One striking feature of traveling down Route 301 about an hour after crossing the Delaware border into Maryland is that all vestiges of suburbia like strip development and shopping centers recede into wide open fields and miles of undisturbed forest. Partially due to the fact that I was headed out here in November to experience the Annual Waterfowl Festival, I immediately thought, “Wow, what great farming and hunting grounds.” This coming from somebody who has never shot a rifle or climbed aboard a tractor. Little did I know that Talbot County’s first impressions were already revealing the underlying culinary treasures brimming forth from this peninsula jutting out into the Chesapeake Bay on Maryland’s Eastern Shore.

Hot Off The Coals

Easton: Talbot County’s Premier Downtown

The first town you reach almost immediately upon exiting Route 50 is the historic village of Easton. It’s easy to see how this town earned the distinction of being the “Colonial Capital of the Eastern Shore”. If you take away the cars, it feels like you’re stepping back in time surrounded by turn of the century ornately designed brick buildings flanking many streets while the more residential sections are lined with grand Victorian homes lovingly maintained as they were when they were originally built. Luckily during Waterfowl Festival held each year here in November, you can fully enjoy this pre-car ambiance when all of Harrison Ave. and some side streets are closed off and the sidewalks are filled with local food vendors. Smoke wafting from huge slabs of pit beef and whole turkeys cooking on a smoker the size of an SUV grabbed my attention. Hot Off The Coals from the nearby town of Queen Anne MD not only had the most tender wood-fired smoked turkey sandwiches I’ve ever tasted but were peppering their service with periodic duck calls. Next it was on to the tasting pavilion to sample local wines and grab a bread bowl of crab soup chock full of sweet blue crab meat. However, the tons of waterfowl sculptures artfully made from materials ranging from bronze to wood are a major raison d’être of this festival. Collectors from all across the country come to browse and purchase these true-to-life replicas of waterfowl like Blackwater Woodies and Mergansers. These serve as an inspiration for actual duck decoys used here during the popular duck hunting season that abounds in the coastal tidelands. Idlewild Park, on the fringes of downtown hosted a sportsman’s pavilion filled with hunting gear and a wide assortment of rifles. Also going on throughout the day, a Dock Dogs’ Competition put a roster of water dogs, mostly Labrador retrievers to the challenge, seeing how far they could jump into a tank of water to fetch tennis balls. Out in the field, this particular skill is relied upon to carry just-shot succulent duck back to their masters. Be sure not to miss the Historical Society of Talbot County on Washington Street which provides some illustrative exhibits covering area history. I promise that even museum-phobes will find it intriguing.

Ava's Wood Fired Artichoke and Basil Pizza

St. Michaels: Maritime Community Meets Shopping Village

Heading out away from Easton on Route 33 further down the peninsula past more stretches of undisturbed forest and pastureland, you’ll quite suddenly emerge into downtown St. Michaels. The main route is now a historic thoroughfare flanked on either side by candy shops, funky boutiques, and eclectic eateries. Must visits include the Eastern Shore Brewery, St. Michaels Winery, and Ava’s Pizzeria and Wine Bar, the perfect lunch stop for some wood-fired pizza. St. Michaels Winery is located in an old mill complex and has a Log Canoe-inspired tasting room for sampling vintages like Gollywobbler Pink or their Chocolate Zinfandel.

Tonging at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum

The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum lies a few blocks away on brick sidewalks from the center of town on the banks of the Miles River. Be sure to reserve a full day to experience all the exhibits, many of which are hands-on like climbing up into the 1879 Hooper Straight Lighthouse, ringing its bell, and walking through rooms outfitted just as they stood when the last keeper vacated the premises. You can even peek inside the period oven and poke around in the closets. For the more adventurous, the museum hosts a Lighthouse Overnight Program where you can experience a lighthouse keeper’s rustic life firsthand. Other attractions include a working boatyard where you can get up close and watch teams of volunteers restoring the Skipjack Rosie Parks or talk with a shipwright or visiting captain. Step on board an oyster boat, the E.C. Collier, and enter the world of the working watermen on the Chesapeake Bay. Via video and mechanical motions, it feels like you’re on an actual boat at sea eavesdropping on the captain and crew as orders are shouted; the cook talks about lunch; the crew brings in the dredge and sorts the oysters. One of the accompanying exhibits also illustrates that today’s harvests are one hundredth of what they were at their height in the late 19th century. At Waterman’s Wharf, a recreated crabber’s shanty, try your hand at being a Chesapeake Bay waterman. Check an eel or crab pot to see if you’ve caught anything, or tong for oysters.

Just up the road, the opulent manor-style Inn at Perry Cabin boasts the Eastern Shore’s only 4 diamond restaurant. Sherwood’s Landing, overlooking the Chesapeake is helmed by new executive chef Aaron Mc Cloud who has worked in an impressive lineup of top restaurants from the Vermont mountains down to Victoria and Albert’s in Florida. At an early age, Albert traded in his violin bow as a professional musician, picked up a chefs knife, and carved out a remarkable performance in the culinary arts. His artistry shows through in his world class preparation and presentation of farm-to-fork dishes that change with the seasons. Standouts that I ordered included roasted wild rockfish with  pumpkin & apple salad, oyster stew, and a goat cheese mousse dessert plate.

Tilghman Island: Watermen and Local Ingredients

The only hint that you are now on an island is that you cross a bridge over Knapp’s Narrows. Really, it’s a continuation of the peninsula and you are getting closer to the tip. You’ll see a small marina below harboring recreational vessels as well as some commercial fishing boats…a clear sign that the ocean’s presence is ever closer. The tiny village of Tilghman Island, unlike Talbot County’s other towns, can really be driven through without noticing if you’re not paying attention. But slow down long enough and you’ll discover a couple gems that authentically showcase Chesapeake heritage. One is the Tilghman Watermen’s Museum. If it weren’t for the independent mom and pop fishermen heading out into waters tonging for oysters and catching crabs, fresh local seafood wouldn’t make it to dinner tables and restaurants. Currently housed in what used to be a barbershop, the small exhibit space is crammed with pictures of watermen in action, old pulleys, engine parts, rigging, and other tools of the trade…many of which are still in use today.

Tilghman Island Inn Bay Views

The other can’t miss attraction here is the Tilghman Island Inn right on the waterfront of Knapp’s Narrows overlooking marsh and the Chesapeake Bay beyond. Wooden docks right out their back door invite you to linger in a chair at sunset or enjoy your morning coffee in tranquility. The Inn’s primary attraction is their restaurant open to the public with a menu incorporating local seafood and game whenever possible. David McCallum, co-owner and Executive Chef is heavily influenced by his southern roots in South Carolina and New Orleans. Since David grew up on a farm, sourcing fresh produce, eggs, and meat is second nature to him. He has formed partnerships with local growers and fisherman to get just picked vegetables as well as fresh caught rockfish, crabmeat,

bluefish, soft shell crabs, oyster and shad roe. He also inventively uses unique regional ingredients like heirloom rice from South Carolina, grains from Minnesota, and grits from Georgia. But don’t come here expecting comfort food in a rustic setting. The dining experience and kitchen prowess is all about white table cloths and international panache influenced by David’s culinary excursions to Europe, South America and Asia. During my visit, in honor of the weekend’s Waterfowl Festival, David hosted a Wild Game and French Wines dinner. Tasty inventive dishes included chick pea dusted frog legs with lemon caper tartar sauce; spicy Brazilian duck tart encrusted in cornmeal; braised rabbit; and my favorite, wild boar sausage with lobster, mustard, and scallion risotto. For me, the big surprise wine pairing with these dishes was an array of Lanquedocs. The dark chocolate red wine mousse served as a crowning touch to the meal.

Photos & video courtesy of Steve Mirsky.  Coverage made possible by participating in a partially sponsored trip.

Teresa Jacobson (Azalea Inn & Gardens), Jackie Heinz (Zeigler House Inn) Shannon Romine (Dresser Palmer House), Diane McCray (Green Palm Inn.)

By Leigh Cort

What could be more memorable than visiting one of the most gorgeous cities in America and staying at a luxurious historic inn with an innkeeper who really cares about you?  The four historic Savannah Inns are a radiant collection of bed & breakfast inns in Savannah, Georgia’s historic district. Spanning the years 1856 to 1897, they grace the City with their genuine warmth and Southern hospitality.

The four inns offer luxury and impeccable personal service that’s definitely a cut above – in a city where accommodations are already extraordinary!

The Zeigler House Inn in Savannah, Georgia

I wasn’t surprised when I first visited Savannah to learn that Conde Nast Traveler positioned it in their list of BEST CITIES IN THE WORLD (October, 2011). It won for ambiance, friendliness, culture, historic sites, restaurants, lodging and shopping. Only months before, U.S. News & World Report announced Savannah as their “BEST U.S. VACATION’ and Travel + Leisure Magazine ranked Savannah as a ‘WORLD’S BEST CITY’.

Savannah's Dresser Palmer House

Feeling that I had landed in the heart of one of the South’s exquisite treasures – Savannah, I knew that I met my match with a city that could fascinate me for at least the next 100 years. With a camera and detailed map of the historic city, my exploration took six visits to be able to find my way around the legendary 22 squares (small public parks).

The Green Palm Inn

Finding a theme to my travels was the primary goal. Once I realized that the innkeepers are all women…the task was easy. This year, with the 100^th anniversary of The Girl Scouts, founded by Savannah native Juliette Gordon Low, it had to be the LEGACY of the Women of Savannah.

Azalea Inn & Gardens

www.ZeiglerHouseInn.com Circa 1856 ~ Arrive on Jones Street “most beautiful street in North America” says Southern Living. Spacious 7 rooms with In-room kitchenettes and option for catered private parties. Lots of private entrances and gardens that complement the quiet avenue and neighborhood.

www.DresserPalmerHouse.com Circa 1876 ~ Relax on Savannah’s longest and most stately front porch (called a gallery in Savannah). Enjoy 16 distinctively appointed rooms and suites, elegant parlor with Steinway grand piano and heart pine bar for ordering your favorite cocktail.

www.AzaleaInn.com Circa 1885 ~Rendezvous near beautiful Forsyth Park. Discover heirloom gardens, new southern cuisine and ten luxurious rooms & suites that include a secret garden guest house. The hidden garden pool is a perfect spot for relaxing or hosting an intimate private event. “Best Innkeepers’ by BedandBreakfast.com.

www.GreenPalmInn.com  Circa 1897 ~ Escape the crowded tourist scene for a bed & breakfast exuding ‘the softer side of Savannah’ near the riverfront. Four cozy yet oversized bedrooms are historically an old seaman’s cottage. It’s just like coming home. “A gem of an inn” says Fodors.

Take a tour with me and let the adventure begin…

SAVANNAH DINING, MUSEUMS, GALLERIES & TOURS

THE DINING SCENE

Whether indulging in fabulous dinner fare or day tripping for fun & food, restaurants in Savannah are as dazzling as a galaxy of stars…from star chefs to award-winning waterfront cafes. The culinary scene is dancing to a new beat, keying in on local seafood, tantalizing themed ethnic menus, classical cuisine and trendy gourmet…all within a short walk or pedi-cab from the SavannahInns.com.

It’s a city surrounded by water that boasts great watering holes and bars, considered one of the top dining Mecca’s in the Southeast USA. We’re always cooking up something tasty in an intimate dining room, waterfront terrace, brick courtyard or rustic retreat.  For those who take lunch and dinner seriously or those out for casual neighborhood ‘eats’, going to a restaurant isn’t something to do before you go out;  it’s why you go out.

Dining in Savannah is ‘serious pleasure’. Whole new generations of exciting young chefs have opened some of the area’s best and most innovative restaurants while classic dining establishments consistently offer famous dishes that haven’t changed in decades!

With everything from soul food and fried green tomatoes to blue-crab and local wild-caught Georgia shrimp, Savannah’s historic district restaurants truly offer something for everyone.

May we suggest…?

The Tea Room,  7 E. Broughton St.,  (912)-239-9690.

Owners: Elizabeth Ruby and Becky Wright, serving Classic Tea Menus and Lunch daily from 11:30-3:30 (except Sunday). The Tea Room proudly bakes and serves scrumptious scones, pastries and sweets. Sandwiches and Salads are served with a pot of tea, edible flowers and exquisite garnishes. The Full Afternoon Tea is something to delight in ~ finger sandwiches, clotted cream, preserves, sorbet, savory scones ~ all presented in a charmingly appointed dining room. www.TheTeaRoomSavannah.com Visit the Menus!

Leopold’s   212 E. Broughton St., (912) 234-4441

Owners: Mary and Stratton Leopold founded in 1919 by three immigrant brothers from Greece (George, Peter and Basil Leopold). They perfected the art of candy and dessert creating the world famous Leopold’s VeriBest™ ice cream. In the early years, patrons would jump off the streetcar to treat themselves to something memorable. Today Stratton and Mary continue the magic & legend where one can always find a long line of ice cream devotees dreaming about their richly rewarding flavors and lunch specialties. www.LeopoldsIceCream.com “Creating Tasty Memories Since 1919” Visit the Flavors.

Alligator Soul   114 Barnard St., (912) 232-7899

Owner Maureen Craig and partner Chef Chris DiNello. Once an underground grain warehouse in 1885, there is a sensual vibe that is masculine yet flawlessly detailed from the bar and fireplace to the intimate dining room. Chef showcases the unpretentious art of fine dining that has been winning awards since 2003 when it was begun by Chef Hilary Craig. Today Maureen and DiNello continue the tradition nightly. Take a culinary tour of the South and you’ll find the road is clearly and creatively paved with today’s favorite specialties with a sprinkling of pizzazz. www.alligatorsoul.com Visit the Menus!

Vic’s on the River  26 E. Bay St., (912)721-1000

Vic’s illustrious pedigree began in 1859 in a building originally used as a cotton warehouse and then Steven Shipping Company ~ housed on two levels of the famous Savannah riverfront. New York architect John Norris designed this, the famed Cotton Exchange and the Johnny Mercer House (among others). Notoriously, General Sherman’s lesser officers used the building for housing and planning during the War Between the States! Today it’s a stunning contemporary A+List fine dining spot that wows the senses as soon as you enter – creating an expansive waterfront ambience that is equaled in style with its eclectic menu that marries southern traditions with contemporary savoir faire.   www.vicsontheriver.com Visit the Menus!

SHOPPING is SERIOUS in SAVANNAH!

There are endless places to shop in Savannah…closet-augmenting delights up, down and around the 22 Savannah Squares. From kitchen gear and stationery to art, antiques and home furnishings, shopping is one of Savannah’s greatest charms. Hundreds of shops are housed in an eclectic potpourri of mansions, warehouses and stunning homes; window-shop fabulous men’s & ladies apparel, gifts for the home and gifts for the kids, confectioners, fine wine, dance wear and antiques-to-boutiques. It’s an artistic City where clusters of specialty shops are walkable throughout the historic district with convenient parking everywhere!

Savannah Bee Company ~ Two Locations in the Historic District; #104 West Broughton Street OR #1 West River Street. 800-955-5080

This is one of the most distinctive and unique shopping adventures of the decade, owned by creator Ted Dennard who is ‘redefining honey’. His goal is to share his passion for honeybees through education, premium beeswax-based body care and bottling the most delicious honey one could ever taste. When you walk into one of his shops, allow yourself to be swept away to a magical land of sampling honey perfection. Whether you choose Tupelo Honey tasted on a little spoon or are interested in nurturing your skin with the luxury of body care products that bring the natural heating powers of beeswax, the shop professionals will enchant you with their knowledge and genuine interest in guiding you through the offerings.  www.SavannahBee.com.

C.H.Brown Antiques – #14 West Jones St., (912) 236-0732

Charlie Brown loves 18^th and 19^th century American and English silver, crystal and their heritage. People are interested in a decorated dining table again which creates the centerpiece of his small exclusive shop on tony Jones Street. The neighborhood exudes luxury and images of grand parties of ‘yesterday’. The collection of unusual serving pieces, exquisite utensils and vintage china & glassware help to create a wonderland of fantasy. His philosophy is to “save and buy one good piece at a time and build a collection gradually with things of good quality”. Charlie Brown’s goal revolves around helping collectors in their quest to set a beautiful table whether they’re eating a peanut butter sandwich or filet mignon. His historical tales are enchanting enough to entertain for hours!

SAVANNAH HISTORY FASCINATES SINCE 1733

The city of Savannah, Georgia was established in 1733 and was the first colonial and state capital of Georgia. It’s known as America’s first ‘planned’ city, obviously enchanting visitors with 22 ‘squares’ or parks that have told the city’s story for centuries. It boasts many ‘firsts’ including one of the South’s first public museums (Telfair Academy of Arts & Sciences), one of the oldest black Baptists congregations in the United States (First African Baptist Church), the third oldest synagogue in America (Temple Mickve Israel) and the oldest standing antebellum rail facility in America (Central Georgia Railway Roundhouse). Today Savannah’s downtown area is one of the largest National Historic Landmark Districts in the United States.

Georgia Historical Society   501 Whitaker St., (912) 651-2125 Contact: Brandy Mai Georgia Historical Society (GHS) is the premier independent statewide institution responsible for collecting, examining and teacher Georgia history. GHS houses the oldest and most distinguished collection of materials related exclusively to Georgia history in the nation. Chartered by the Georgia General Assembly in 1839, it is the oldest continuously operated historical society in the South. It publishes the award-winning Georgia Historical Quarterly, maintains a library and archives, manages the Historical Marker Program for the State of Georgia and is headquartered in Savannah with an office in Atlanta/ It has 6,000 members and nearly 200 affiliates in 80 counties. $5/daily fee for non-members. www.GeorgiaHistory.com

Flannery O’Connor Childhood Home  207 E. Charlton St., (912) 233-6014

Toby C. Aldrich, Resident Manager.  Flannery O’Connor (1925-1964) was the 3-time winner of the O.Henry Award and posthumous winner of the National Book Award for Fiction for ‘The Complete Stories’. Director John Huston made two movies from her acclaimed novels ‘Wise Blood’ and ‘The Violent Bear It Away’. Visitors to her childhood home are invited into the authentic museum house that is restored to the Depression-era…receiving a guided tour that reveals the quiet domestic life of young Mary Flannery and her family. When author Pat Conroy attended the home’s ’20 Finalists for National Book Awards’, he stated “I consider Mary Flannery O’Connor the greatest short story writer in the history of our republic’ and ‘her home is one of the temples of world literature’. The museum house is dedicated to the work and life of the acclaimed novelist and short story writer now widely considered one fo the most important writers of the 20^th century.  www.flanneryoconnorhome.org

Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace #10 E. Oglethorpe Ave., (912) 233-4501

Fran Harold, Director. Katherine Keena, Program Manager.  Dreams really do come true at the Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace. This architectural and cultural treasure opens the doors to her remarkable family and their recognized achievements in industry, government, the military and humanitarian organizations. In 1912 when Juliette Low placed a phone call to announce “Come Right Over! I’ve got something for the girls of Savannah and all American AND all the world AND we’re going to start it tonight!”, she launched the Girl Scouts which is celebrating their 100^th Anniversary in 2012. The magnificent home graciously welcomes you into her privileged and educated world of art and furnishings where she and her family hosted international statesmen and celebrities. Director Fran Harold states “Just as Juliette Low said it in 1925….”Truly ours is a circle of friendships united by ideals”. www.juliettegordonlowbirthplace.org

TOURS

Old Savannah Tours #41 Wahlstrom Rd., (912) 234-8128 

Renae Scott, Director of Marketing.  Old Savannah Tours is the only locally owned and operated Trolley Tour company in Savannah, providing captivating ‘overview’ and on-off tours for 30 years. Their easy to identify white vehicles, trolleys and vans transport guests through more than two and a half centuries of history…riding along cobblestone paved streets, beneath moss-draped oaks and enchanting those aboard with fabulous narration about the ‘Old South’. Old Savannah Tours provides a comprehensive look at Savannah’s fascinating past, stately mansions, historic and beautiful squares, romantic riverfront and hundreds of tidbits from the famed ‘Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil”, “Forrest Gump” and the original “Paula Deen Tour”. They are professionally organized to arrange tours that might include historic haunts, Pirates’ House and ‘Land and Sea Tours’. www.OldSavannahTours.com

Sellers & Higgins Walking Tour Company, (912) 358-0700

Philip Sellers and Tony Higgins offer much more than a typical walking tour. They paint a true picture the City’s colorful people and rich heritage sprinkled with a little spice and humor. If you’re crazy about being entertained by two standup philosophers delivering a quality tour of uncommon value, you’ll be glad to know that the ‘stars’ of their tours are the stories about Savannah…not the guides. Philip Sellers is a captivating storyteller and writer. Tony Higgins hails from Great Britain with an uncanny knowledge of Colonial Georgia History. Their tours begin daily on Chippewa Square; a complimentary shuttle is available from various city locations. Immerse yourself in: ‘Savannah Women’, ‘The Classic Tour’ or ‘The Backstory Tour’. Pair Philip and Tony together for a lively repartee that will endear you to Savannah forever. www.SellersandHiggins.com

Shannon Scott Tours ~ 1215 E. 48 St., (912) 604-4423

Savannah’s very own Master of Macabre, Shannon Scott has amassed, more than anyone to date, the most complete set of cemetery, ghost, occult and uncanny tales for 20+ years. He is the ultimate insider to the city’s more Gothic quarters. He personally conducts day and evening tours of famed Bonaventure Cemetery, along with his latest adventure into the unknown…”The Lucky Thirteen”. For videos, photos, tour descriptions and fun see www.ShannonScott.com.

Lowering the Shrimp Nets

By Debi Lander, Photos Copyright © Bylandersea

Like most folks, I’d never been on a shrimp boat or watched fishermen trawl– except for scenes of Bubba shrimpin’ in the movie Forest Gump. All that changed recently while I was a guest at the King & Prince Resort on St. Simons Island, Georgia. I boarded The Lady Jane in nearby Brunswick for a two hour outing that not only let me see the operation up-close, but taste it, too.  And, there was even an on-board expert to explain all the sea-life that came up in the net.

I watched as Captain Larry Credle lowered the nets and commanded the boat at a slow pace, approximate 3 miles-per-hour. The real fun started when the crew pulled in the catch and emptied it onto a stainless steel table.  Along with jumbo sized opaque shrimp, the haul included string rays, Horseshoe Crabs, Puffer Fish, Amberjack, Crocker, Blue crab, Skate, baby octopus, some anchovies and jellies. Not to worry, all creatures except the shrimp were quickly released back into the water.

Our second catch also brought up a Loggerhead turtle. They rarely catch a sea turtle, so we were very lucky to see one. Captain Credle quickly snapped a photo, took some measurements and filled out a form for a state project following the turtle population.  The Loggerhead was then returned to the marshy water where conditions are right for him to continue to thrive.

Freshly Caught Georgia Shrimp

True to Captain Credle’s word, we got to taste some shrimp and it really doesn’t get any fresher.  A plate of beautiful boiled Georgia shrimp was served with a side of crackers and delicious cocktail sauce. I learned that most Georgia shrimp are consumed within the state because of the popularity of the local delicacy.

An excursion aboard the Lady Jane, a 60-foot United States Coast Guard certified 49 passenger steel-hull boat couldn’t make a better family outing. Adults and kids will be fascinated with this unique experience. The boat leaves from Spanky’s Marshside where you can park your car.  The decks are safe and wide, the cabin is air conditioned and bathroom facilities are available. Don’t forget to bring your camera.

Now like Bubba said in the movie,” Shrimp is the fruit of the sea. You can barbecue it, boil it, broil it, bake it, sauté it. Dey’s uh, shrimp-kabobs, shrimp Creole, shrimp gumbo. Pan fried, deep fried, stir-fried. There’s pineapple shrimp, lemon shrimp, coconut shrimp, pepper shrimp, shrimp soup, shrimp stew, shrimp salad, shrimp and potatoes, shrimp burgers, shrimp sandwiches. That- that’s about it.” Well said.

For reservations and information:

Tel: 912-265-5711

$39.95 Adult
$25.00 Children (under 6 yrs)

http://www.shrimpcruise.com

Where does Santa Claus live? Finland!

By Summer Whitford

Have you ever written a letter to Santa and wondered if he actually read it? Don’t worry, it’s never too late to send one in. He may be busy making toys and presents for boys and girls everywhere, but he never forgets to put anyone on his list.

And, if you had the chance to visit the place where all the magic happens, would you take it?

Well, hold on to your reindeer harnesses, boys and girls. It turns out you can visit jolly old Saint Nick at his “crib” at the North Pole… more specifically, at his home is in Finland.  That’s right. The Santa’s home is just 8km to the north of Rovaniemi, (which the Finns refer to as “Santa’s village,”) in Lapland, a region located along the Arctic Circle.

This sparkling, snow-bound wonderland is an oasis of Christmas pleasure. The landscape is breathtaking in its desolate silence and majestically untouched, with tall conifers and softly rounded white hills that look like mounds of whipped cream. Now, imagine spending the Christmas holidays in this winter wonderland. Sounds fabulous doesn’t, it? Whether you’re five or ninety-five, Finland, but especially Santa’s village and SantaPark, are incredible destinations during the holidays.

For most of us, Rovaniemi is so far away, it’s a once in a lifetime trip, but traveling there is fairly straight forward–you fly to Helsinki and then take a shuttle flight directly to Rovaniemi. The village is about 8km north of SantaPark and lodging to suite everyone’s preferences, from four star hotels, to B&Bs, to camping, and snow hotels. In addition to the activities at SantaPark, Rovaniemi offers all kinds of diversions and activities for children and adults.

For a special treat however, you might want to consider staying in one of the 38 cabins Santa, or Joulupukki, as the Finns call him, built for his new Holiday Village. Each cabin is just steps away from Santa’s Work Shop and the rest of SantaPark. He and the elves built these cabins to accommodate their friends who visit from all over Finland and the globe, and they welcome either adults alone, or adults with children.

Santa Taking a Break

Each charming wooden cabin offers cozy, inviting quarters with room enough for indoor fun and entertaining. They come fully equipped with everything you need for a typical Finnish breakfast. If you want to do as the locals, there are also kitchenettes, an authentic Finnish sauna, and of course TVs for those who can’t be separated from their regular programs. If you don’t want to go into the center of Rovaniemi for lunch and dinner, Holiday Village also has the Christmas House Restaurant and Coffee Bar where guests can grab a quick lunch or enjoy dinner with the whole family.

For a child, nothing can compare with the joy of seeing Santa, and for that, you have to head over to the adorably decorated Post Office, where every week thousands of letters arrive from children from around the world. Another surprise that awaits you is SantaPark itself, which is a fantasyland devoted just to Christmas buried deep beneath the ground. The entire place is set in a series of caverns where year round you can see hundreds of elves hard at work making toys and other treats. Amid the bang and clatter of the Elf Workshop, ambitious kiddies can join the elves and make their own Christmas ornament for the tree.

Budding chefs will recognize the tempting aromas of cinnamon and spice as they float in the air from the Gingerbread Kitchen where kids can make their own cookies under the watchful eye of brightly dressed elves. For ambitious children, there is also Elf School, Santa’s training center where children can all of the things they need to know to become one of Santa’s special helpers. If you have a child that loves to shop, there is plenty for them to buy at Santa’s Shopping Arcade, which sells handmade items created by the local Sami people of Lapland, as well as all sorts of tempting Christmas decorations, toys, souvenirs, and gift items.

Finland is a Nature Lover's Paradise

If you are exhausted and in need of a reviving beverage after your visit to SantaPark, there are plenty of welcoming spots where you can laze by a fire and sip glögi. This Finnish mulled wine is always served during Christmas and is just the thing to warm up your bones when you come in from the cold. For travelers who adore music, art, and history, Finland is a hidden treasure trove of world-class museums, music festivals, and enriching experiences. Her capital city, Helsinki, nicknamed “the white city of the North,” is a hub of cosmopolitan sophistication that has become an international center for design, communications, and technology.

The Finns may be a bit shy and reserved at first, but they are warm and friendly once you get to know them. They are also more conservative about personal space and value your privacy, so you won’t have prying people staring or getting over familiar. If you are an English speaker who’s terrible at languages, you will love Finland. Most everyone, particularly the young people, speaks English well, and the Finns enjoy the chance to flex their linguistic muscles with a native speaker.

Once you’ve done the Santa and elves thing, there are also diversions that seem custom made for culture vultures. You can also meet the wonderful Sami people, or Laplanders as outsiders call them. They are a fascinating part of Finnish culture and have extraordinary traditions and a distinct lifestyle. These hardy people survive in the frigid Arctic by fishing, hunting, and herding reindeer, and they are the last remaining indigenous people in Europe. Anthropologists believe the Sami have lived in this region for an estimated eight to ten thousand years, and that they created the Finns’ beloved custom of sauna.

As much as Finland is known for her incredible design aesthetic and vibrant, modern society, her natural charms are her most endearing feature. It is a gorgeous, unspoiled country covered in pristine old forests and thousands of glittering, ice covered lakes, streams, and rivers. In fact, Finland is a land where water, after forests, is a central theme in the people’s lives. The Finns love fishing and boating, and even their capital city overlooks the breathtaking Gulf of Finland and the Åland Archipelago.

The country’s incredible scenery makes it a nature lover’s paradise that offers visitors the chance to commune with native flora and fauna in unspoiled wildernesses found in one of the many preserves, wildlife sanctuaries, or national parks.

Husky "Dog Safaris" in Kuusamo

If you count the days until the mercury drops and prefer a more active vacation, Finland will entrance you with all its huge selection of winter sports and entertainment like ice fishing, skiing, skating, boating, snow mobile racing, and hiking. Continuing with the outdoors theme, there are other exciting activities that are only found in this part of the globe, like Reindeer Safaris.

Who can resist being warmly bundled under layers of fur and woolen blankets in a beautiful wooden sleigh drawn by reindeer and expertly driven by Sami people? Each Sami driver dresses in traditional, colorfully braided red, white, and black coats and hats and acts as your charming guide as your sleigh swiftly glides over the snow. Snuggled safe in the sleigh, the only sound you hear as the rolling countryside unfolds before your eyes is the whisk of the sleigh across the snow and the tinkling of the reindeers’ harness bells.

For those who feel the need for speed, there are Husky Dog Safaris for hire in Kuusamo pulled by teams of Siberian huskies. This fast-paced tour is a whir of sparkles and sunlight as the sun hits the frozen snow and ice that dangles from tree branches and the ice-borne lakes and streams. There is nothing quite like this sort of ride. It offers a close-up view of Santa’s pristine, arctic haven that won’t soon be forgotten.

The Northern Lights

Just when you think you have had enough of the cold and snow, you won’t want to miss a visit to the enchanted snow castle known as Kemi. A work of genius, each year this sparkling white fortress is re-designed and constructed over five very long, stress-filled months. The design is different from year to year and includes elaborately carved towers, block walls, turrets, steeples, and intricately carved sculptures and bas-reliefs made entirely from snow and ice. When the castle is lit, inside and out, it glows in a rainbow of colors that match the enigmatic, swirling, pastels of the Northern Lights.

All of this may sound spectacular, but if you can’t make the trip, you can still see the hustle and bustle and scenic countryside, no matter how far away you are. Thanks to Santa’s clever elves, a live video feed shows views of the village and captures all of the activities year round.

If you or one of your friends would like to send Santa a letter, the address is:

Santa Claus

Santa Claus Village

FIN-96930 Arctic Circle

Finland

Remember, no matter what time of year it is, it’s always time for Christmas in Santa’s Workshop. As they say in Finland, “Hyvää Joulua!” Merry Christmas.

Photos courtesy of the Finland Tourism Board: Visit Finland.

First-time visitors usually squeal with joy when they find the Candlelight Inn. Tucked in at the end of a non-descript street in suburban Napa town, the California Tudor’s elegant rooflines and manicured gardens invite guests to sit and stay awhile in its comfy parlor. Although on the edge of Napa, its legendary wineries and vibrant downtown beckon nearby.

Napa Valley's Candlelight Inn

Candlelight Inn is one of those secret finds you’ll want to key into your phone or little black book. Imagine the sublime synergy created at this B & B, with a trained butler who is also   the concierge, Scott, and a dragster-racing hot-rod owner, Sam, who likes to cook. The lengthy hospitality industry background of the owner and staff shows throughout. Thoughtful touches like the plate of sweets, savories, and wine left in the fridge for you, and the fresh flowers in your room, are personable ways to show hospitality without being too in-your-face, a quality common to many B&B operators. You’ll soon feel like you are staying with friends, in this comfortable and well-decorated non-stuffy atmosphere. Ask for the “secret” cottage, a very private stand-alone suite situated along the Napa Creek at the property’s edge, or any of the large well-appointed rooms with fireplaces and jetted tubs that open up to your private deck and the azure pool beyond.

It’s a great season to visit Napa. The town is dressed in its best party dress to celebrate Cabernet season, with tiny lights sparkling everywhere. There are celebratory festivities and wine aboard Napa Valley Wine Train.  Scott and Sam have put up a Christmas tree in the inn’s big mullioned window and lined up huge baskets of poinsettias spilling out the front door.

Bill Boerum at Beau Wine Tours has polished up the limo and iced down the bubbly, ready to take you on exceptional wine tasting to some private cellars. Later, you can make your way to some favorite Napa restaurants: Oenotri, Carpe Diem Wine Bar, Graces Table, Cuvee, La Toque, and Eiko’s, for some terrific food and, of course, a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon. Make plans to visit soon.

In the meantime, head over to CityRoomGourmet to learn how to celebrate Cabernet season in Napa with Candlelight Inn’s famous cheese puffs!