Wood Oven Fired Margarita Pizza

April 17th, 2012

'Earth' Executive Chef, Kevin Walsh's Wood Oven Fired Margarita Pizza

Courtesy of  Executive Chef Kevin Walsh, of “Earth’ Restaurant at Hidden Pond, Kennebunkport

Ingredients:

6 kilos “00″ flour (13.2 pounds)

7g yeast (1/4 ounce)

226g salt (8 ounces)

3.75 liters water (1 gallon)

 

Topping:

Milled San Marzano tomatoes

Mozzarella di Bufala

Parmigiano-Reggiano

Basil leaves, torn

 

Method:

Bloom (dissolve) yeast in the water.

Add flour to bloomed yeast and water, then add salt.

Mix (knead) for 10min.

Let the mixed dough proof at 55-60 degrees overnight.

Scale dough out to 255g (8 ounces) and form into balls.

Proof balled dough for 24 hours.

Then stretch dough out to form a circle.

Top with milled San Marzano tomatoes, Mozzarella di Bufala, grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, and torn basil leaves.

Cook at 850-900 degrees for 1 1/2 min or until crispy.

Cut into 6 slices and drizzle a good quality extra virgin olive oil on top and enjoy!

 




Dining Around the Kitchens of Zermatt, Switzerland

April 12th, 2012

Story and photos by Steve Mirsky

Chef at Work in Cervo's Kitchen

I found that getting fully acquainted with Zermatt goes beyond taking your picture in front of the Matterhorn and doing some skiing or hiking. It’s about immersing yourself in local mountain heritage at the Matterhorn Museum and taking a stroll through the narrow streets of historic Old Zermatt. Getting to know some residents and dining at some of their favorite restaurants also helps you realize that rough mountain living dependent on sheep herding, local vegetable crops, and herbs has shaped Swiss cuisine over hundreds of years. Today’s top Zermatt gourmet restaurants epitomize the tasty spectacle of simple ingredients prepared to innovative and exacting heights. One of the best ways to witness these chefs’ magic is to join the village’s weekly Kitchen Around held Tuesdays and Wednesdays for 2-4 people.

For 158 CHF per person, you aren’t just getting behind-the-scenes in the kitchens of any ‘ole place. Along with world class skiing, Zermatt ranks as Switzerland’s top dining destination in the Alps with 17 restaurants totaling 233 Gault Millau points. Gault Millau is a rating system similar to Michelin Stars except with the distinguishing factor that points are awarded strictly based on food quality. Comments about service, price or atmosphere are given separately and don’t affect the score.

Joining in on this tour takes you into the kitchens of 4 restaurants for 1 course each made right in front of you and served with aplomb. Usually a table with full place settings complete with candlelight along with chef selected glasses of local Valais wine await you on the periphery of all the kitchen action. I felt welcomed as the guest of honor with rare access to cooking tips from the chef as well as enjoyable conversations with other staff.

For instances when it’s a little less expedient by foot due to distance, 2 electric powered taxi rides (combustion engines are not allowed in Zermatt) get you to and from restaurants. This along with at least one surprise culinary-related gift is included in the price. Here’s what I experienced:

Cervo

Sonnmatten's Homemade Bread Selection

Take a glass-walled elevator from the village of Zermatt’s Rechte Uferstrasse 100 meters up to this newly constructed luxury chalet. Then cross a ski trail which literally ends at the restaurant’s doorstep. A large deck outside ensconced in a forest setting overlooks the Matterhorn yet you’re minutes above Zermatt’s action. Inside, the hotel restaurant décor is rustic modern with antlers comprising handrails and festooning portions of the bar’s ceiling. Here I had two appetizers, the first of which was Hobelkase, thinly sliced “planing” cheese rolled up into tubes filled with plum chutney. The other consisted of Roggenbrot (thin slices of crisp rye bread pieces) elegantly arranged like a mini stone henge on my plate and filled with a mixture of cream cheese, apple, pear, and fresh lettuce topped with small pieces of Welsh bacon.

Classic Valais Lamb in All Its Glory

Sonnmatten

In the words of Head Chef Andreas Stotter, “Our guests are the center of everything we do. We aren’t satisfied unless they are ecstatic!” Not only is the service impeccable, but vaunted specialties here include veal cheek with parsnips, potato purée and Romanesco. I was served a deliciously soul-warming Champagne celery soup accompanied by an eclectic selection of house made mini bread loafs. My favorite was what I can best describe as a thick pretzel topped sparingly with salt crystals.

Z’Art

This restaurant/wine-bar not only features artfully prepared and tasty dishes but also notable works of art on its walls. A type of art gallery (currently black and white mountain scene photos) are on display and for sale. You can order anything from Asian starter “finger-food” to substantial main courses. Here I had what was the “main course” of the evening. A hearty plate of lamb curry studded with two locally butchered black nose lamb chops. The ragout, most generously seasoned with cinnamon, cloves, and cardamon was the perfect dish apres skiing in -5 C conditions.

 

Walliserhof Desserts

Walliserhof

A Zermatt classic right on the Bahnhofstrasse, this restaurant is divided between the rustic Stübli featuring five types of cheese fondue, various tarts, flambes, plus lighter specialties like ultra-thin air-dried beef. The other side is a grill where Switzerland often meets Mediterranean influences. Here I went straight to the basement kitchen for a double dessert consisting of a chocolate tort filled with pop-rock like candies as well as a scoop of house made vanilla ice cream topped with a freshly baked vanilla wafer….a perfect harmonization of the yin-yang dichotomy at work here!

 

 

 

  Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored trip.


Decadence d’Or Created by Johann Springinsfield

April 11th, 2012

By Maralyn D. Hill, The Epicurean Explorer

Decadence d'Or - The $750.00 Cupcake

What is Decadence d’Or? For me, a $750 cupcake satisfies that answer. Before sharing the cupcake, discovering the passion of the chef also matters to provide full appreciation.

Hailing from France, Johann Springinsfield’s passion for pastries developed as a youngster when his mother taught him the art of making homemade cake.

Like many European chefs, by 16, he moved  from home to attend an apprenticeship program to hone his pastry making skills. For 10 years, Johann learned by moving around France and working under some of the great chefs of the world. Then, he accepted the position as chef for a catering company. With his helping the owners, the company grew from seven employees to more than 30 in one year.

By 2002, he opened his own business in the French Riviera. Johann’s move to Las Vegas happened in 2006, to help a friend who owned a catering company. While dealing with the difficulties of learning a different culture and language, he took the pastry chef position with The Venetian and The Palazzo. There, he was able to indulge his passion for decadent pastry and created Decadence D’Or. Describing the ingredients of this creation shows why it is so expensive.

Decadence D’Or is a cupcake, created using the most audacious ingredients, gathered from around the world and handcrafted by chefs here at the Venetian/Palazzo Hotels.  This sumptuous cake, made from Palmira Single Estate Chocolate, Charentes Poitou AOC Butter and Tahitian Gold Vanilla Bean Caviar, is painstakingly topped with edible gold flakes and Louis XIII Cognac, encased in a hand blown sugar Fleur-de-Lis.

Chef Johann Springinsfield

This cognac, Louis XIII de Rémy Martin, is manufactured using grapes from the Grande Champagne territory of Cognac, France.  Each bottle is a blend of 1,200 cognacs, ranging from 40 to 100 years old, across three generations of Cellar Masters, resulting from the combined labor of 10,000 people.  According to Rémy Martin’s philosophy, if you start with the finest grapes from the best vineyards, sift them through the best eaux-de-vie, and blend artfully, you will produce the finest cognac.

In 2004, Valrhona wished to develop a new chocolate in the Single Estate and Vintage chocolate range. Valrhona’s Venezuela plantation, Palmira, was given the opportunity to experiment with a rare, precious and very fragile cocoa: Porcelana, a very old and rare type of Criollo bean. Trees of Palmira had been individually planted by Jean Francois Dargein, who was determined to safeguard this special Criollo varietal. The resulting chocolate, known as Palmira Single Estate Chocolate, is very complex, with many sensations, and extremely rich.

Vanilla Caviar-Vanilla is the world’s most labor-intensive agricultural crop, which is why it’s so expensive. After the vines are planted, up to three years are required before the first flowers appear. Tahitian Gold vanilla is laboriously hand-pollinated. The fruits, which resemble big green beans, must remain on the vine for nine months to develop completely their signature aroma before they are hand-harvested. Then, the lengthy process of curing, sweating and drying begins. Tahitian Gold Vanilla Caviar is obtained by manually splitting the beans and carefully extracting all seeds.

Edible gold flakes are extremely delicate, require patience and dexterity, but are well worth the effort.  Metallic gold is biologically inert and has no toxic effect on the body over time. Alchemists of the 15th century used gold medicinally. Europeans have a very old tradition of using edible gold on food. In the 16th century, Italian Dukes and Earls used to decorate their risotto with gold leaves. Japanese have been adding edible gold to foods and even to their sake for centuries.

For those who can afford to pamper themselves to the extreme, this may satisfy your taste buds. How did we happen to taste this work of culinary art? The International Food Wine and Travel Writers Association held its 2012 Conference at the Venetian/Palazzo and the hotel was gracious enough to share this experience with us.

We were able to watch Johann create his masterpiece with such pride. Although I imagined it would be giant size, it was nevertheless a $750 cupcake—sheer decadence. Where else but in the Venetian/Palazzo would something like this be available? Gratefully, we did get to taste his $750 cupcake creation.


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