Official Groupby Allan Kissam
Route through the Salish Sea islands
(Modified from the original authored by Pfly on Wiki Commons)
Boating through the San Juan Islands of Washington automatically includes sighting eagles, fishing, crabbing, beach walking, nature parks, sailing, kayaking… you get the idea. A popular starting place is to take a boat out of Bellingham. Once underway, just skipper the boat into a nirvana harbor. Below are several such harbors that induce nirvana.
Other ways to see the islands include small airplane, float plane, and car-ferry. Lodging is available at all the best places, so being a yachtsman with a bunk isn’t necessary.
The San Juan Islands are located in the northwestern corner of the state of Washington, and nearby are the Canadian Southern Gulf Islands. Combining these islands we have an archipelago in the Salish Sea where the locations for finding nirvana just doubled.
33′ Back Cove from Bellingham Yachts
Skippers holding down a day job need not shy away from this trip but for safety’s sake hire a person for refresher training. Bellingham Yachts will charter the boat and provide a training skipper to ride along for two days. Once feeling capable, put the trainer ashore at a ferry dock and resume the trip.
This charter was a 33’ Back Cove power boat with most of the comforts of home. The boat does over 20 knots which is a unique experience with a large boat (John Kennedy and PT-109 anyone?). As relaxing is a part of reaching nirvana, try chugging along at six knots and save fuel to boot. The total fuel bill for the trip described below was only $167 and at times the boat was powered up for fun.
A circular route out of Bellingham and into the Southern Gulf Islands, then down to the San Juan Islands and a pleasant cruise back to port is one recommendation. During this run there may be seen orca whales (Orcinus orca) in the waters from April through September.
On this trip, after checking in with Canadian authorities, the first night was at anchor in Lyall Harbor, Saturna Island, between tree covered hills. Ashore on the island is the Saturna Winery and pleasant walks. In fact, nearly all islands have vineyards and winery locations since the region is warmer than the general northwest.
Lyall Harbor, Saturna Island, BC
Three hours (at nirvana speed) from Saturna is popular Ganges on Salt Spring Island. Excellent prepared food is available in the market deli and at local restaurants. Many like Ganges because of the vacation-port shopping and unique items in the jewelry store.
On leaving Canada, transit south to Roche Harbor on San Juan Island. Use a guest dock and relax over a beer while contemplating how Capt. George Pickett (later of Pickett’s Charge at Gettysburg in the US Civil War) once looked on these same hills. Britain and the USA faced off here in the “Pig War” of 1859. Above the docks are a fine restaurant, a café, a market, a hotel, and public art displays.
Friday Harbor is around the bend from Roche Harbor and it is the main city of the area, along with being the islands ferry route terminus point. If coming in by ferry as a walk aboard (no car necessary), this is an excellent place to stay and tour. Boaters will enjoy the docks and easy walk for shopping and meals.
Roche Harbor
Seeking a final day of peace and quiet, the next destination is Deer Harbor. It is a good harbor for anchoring or use a guest dock with services ashore. This is a beautiful place.
On Orcas Island is the East Sound with an airport and resorts accessible by boat. Other popular destinations are sheltered coves with interesting views of the transiting ferries and small boats.
Underway from Deer Harbor, the route heads east seeking out the smaller islands and passages for a last look. Exiting the San Juan Islands via Thatcher Pass, motor past the Anacortes ferry pier which is the nexus of the island ferry and a feeder to the freeways inland. Anacortes public marina is a short walk to a favorite seafood restaurant, Randy’s Pier 61. Anacortes offers many shops with art and general merchandise.
Deer Harbor, Orcas Island, WA
Returning to Bellingham from Anacortes is a three hour run if still operating at nirvana speed. The boat is due back in the morning so the last day is always an early start. On this trip, however, the risk of morning fog caused a run back on the night before and dinner at, Anthony’s at Bellingham Marina. Better safe at home port with a crab cocktail than late for tomorrow’s plane home.
