Official GroupBy Ray Pearson
Single malt Scotch whisky is near and dear to my heart. So are Scottish history and bicycling. They all came together during a recent distillery tour when my good buddy, Colin Campbell, offered the use of his trusty Trek 520 touring bike. The plan was an easy 50-mile, two day ride from Colin’s home near the Tomatin Distillery to the village of Findhorn, on Findhorn Bay. I would ride north on the B9154, past the historic Culloden Battlefield and the mystical Clava Cairns, to Cawdor Castle. From there, it would be country roads, northeast to Findhorn, and meeting Colin for dinner in this unique town. But first, a behind-the-scenes tour of Tomatin Distillery.
Tomatin Barrels
Tomatin, one of the largest distilleries in Scotland, produces a distinctive component for many blended Scotches, in addition to its own 12 year old single malt. Aromas in the many aging warehouses were as enjoyable to experience as was seeing the endless rows of casks, aging the precious liquid. Two interesting facts about Tomatin: it was the first distillery in Scotland to be fully owned by a Japanese company, and it began operation, as an illicit still, in the 1400s.
As I left the distillery grounds the next morning under gloomy skies threatening to let loose their rain, Colin’s farewell was “Auch – it’s a great day for whisky making – have a great trip!”
The Trek 520’s touring drive chain made the rolling hills of the Findhorn Valley flatten to an effortless ride, bringing me to the first destination. Culloden Battlefield, with its many heart-wrenching accounts of entire Scottish clans being wiped out in battle was sobering, and a glimpse into the darkest days for Scotland. This land is held sacred by the Scots, as the site of their 1746 defeat by the British, ending the Jacobite Uprising.
A few miles away, I stopped to explore the Clava Cairns – a series of well-preserved burial chambers, built around 4000 years ago, during the Bronze Age, then rolled into my pre-arranged B&B in the town of Cawdor with enough time to verify tomorrow’s route with the hosts and to enjoy a relaxing bath. I have to admit, the seat on the 520 was not the most comfortable place to spend hours on end, and this was the perfect ending to a great, and only slightly, rainy day.
Cawdor Castle
By morning, the great whisky making weather had been replaced by sunny skies with brilliant shafts of light piercing the clouds and spilling onto the hills. How great are bike trips!, I thought, as Cawdor Castle came into view. This beautiful site is best known for its literary connection to Shakespeare’s Macbeth, in which the tragic king was known as Thane of Cawdor. Original sections of the castle date to the 1200s, and today the Cawdor family still maintains ownership. On the castle grounds is a secluded cottage, overlooking the Findhorn River. It’s available for rental, and is a perfect base for salmon fishing, day trekking, and sightseeing. The castle is a popular stop for bicyclists, and there were plenty of racks for safe storage.
Findhorn Wind Turbines
Several times during the ride toward Findhorn, small flocks of birds – quail, I think – burst from the roadside, nearly colliding with me. Colin had explained how the bike’s longer wheel base and lower center of gravity provided great stability on the road, so I shouldn’t worry about such things … and he was right! Instead, I focused on the awesome scenery, richly green and verdant, with the sparkling blue of the distant Moray Firth beckoning. This route had taken me from about a thousand feet elevation to sea level, over mostly rolling, gentle terrain – perfect for my knees, which seem to get older before the rest of me!
Findhorn Barrel House
Finally, Findhorn! Sentinel-like wind turbines welcomed me to this “ecovillage”, known around the world (at least in some circles) as being both “odd” and “progressive” in its efforts toward sustainability. Coming to town on a bicycle obviously put me in good stead with the locals, as their tiny carbon footprint and other social, economic and educational values were quickly pulled into our friendly chitchat. As a whisky lover, I was fascinated by the famous “whisky barrel houses” in town. These tiny cottages are made from giant wooden vats called “washbacks”, used to ferment the watery grain slurry during one of the processes in making Scotch. The expended washbacks are often 12 feet in diameter and 20 feet tall. In the distilleries, they hold upwards of 50,000 liters of liquid. I wondered about any lingering aromas of whisky!
I’m not sure whether Colin was happier that I had a fantastic ride, or to see his bike had made it in one piece. Either way, we enjoyed a great meal of locally-grown food, before driving back to Tomatin. Visits to the other distilleries in the Findhorn region – Benromach, Dallas Dhu (closed as a distillery, but open as a museum), and Royal Brackla – were informative and fascinating. I’ll long remember this trip where single malt, Scottish history, and bicycling all came together in perfect harmony.
A few notes: Colin had suggested this simple trip. It provided such “up close and personal” opportunities that we discussed going together on a much longer trip, but planned by a professional bicycle tour company. We’ve got about a year to plan, and we’ve already got our maps out! To learn more about the places mentioned in this article:
Tomatin distillery: http://www.tomatin.com
Culloden Battlefield: http://www.scottishweb.net/articles/41/1/The-Battle-Of-Culloden/Page1.html
Clava Cairns: http://www.historic- scotland.gov.uk/propertyresults/propertydetail.htm?PropID=PL_067&PropName=Clava%20Cair ns
Cawdor Castle: http://www.cawdorcastle.com
Findhorn: http://www.ecovillagefindhorn.com
Trek Bicycles: http://www.trekbikes.com
