By Ray Pearson

Marco Polo, that well-trod explorer who introduced the world to the wonders of Asia, would have hyperventilated at discovering Diamond Jamboree in Irvine, California. If this bustling retail center featuring dozens of culinary options has an anchor, it would be H-Mart, an Asian-centric superstore. The retailer, with about 40 locations across the U.S., features everything from fresh fruits and vegetables  to fuzzy rice cookers and health and beauty products. Among the dining destinations in the center are cafes, restaurants, bakeries, and take-outs offering international selections from Korea, China, Japan, Vietnam, Taiwan, and others. Mr. Polo might have felt a bit homesick at the European Bon Epi Café, with its selection of continental breads and desserts. Taiwan’s counterpart to Starbucks is 85^oC Bakery Café (that’s the ideal temperature to serve coffee). One of the many specialties of the house is sea salt iced coffee. There’s a technique to experiencing this tasty treat; begin by licking the salty foam to jumpstart your senses, then swoon over the sweet, creamy coffee underneath. The contrast of textures and flavors of salt and coffee on a warm day is magical.

At the Japanese restaurant called SWSH Shabu Shabu, the spelling-challenged “Swish� describes the onomatopoeic Shabu Shabu (“swish swish�). This is the sound created by submerging thin slices of meat back and forth in boiling kelp water. Similar to the fondue craze of the 1960s and ‘70s, guests cook their own selections right at the counter or in comfortable booths in their own hot pots. (Note to Mrs. Robinson, my seventh grade English teacher: I finally got an opportunity to use that word in a sentence.)

Meals at Shabu Shabu begin with a yin yang-like divided hot pot placed on a flush mounted induction burner.  At the bar, each guest has their own; for a table for four there are two burners. One side of the pot contains an unadorned sukiyaki soup base (sweet) and the other a kombu soup base (savory). Individual items for all courses are cooked with a quick swish swish, using either chopsticks or a fork. Vegetables are plentiful and entrees include Jidori chicken, Kurobuta pork, Certified Angus rib-eye or short ribs, Snake River  American Kobe, and various seafood. Ponzu and goma dipping sauces add the finishing touches to the entees. The soup bases, now enriched by having cooked all the elements of the meal, are now ready to be infused with any remaining vegetables and enjoyed as an over-the-top soup.

The most popular dessert pays tribute to those fondue parties of days gone by; Green Tea White Chocolate Fondue with fresh strawberries, bananas, pound cake, and marshmallows. The house premium chocolate is also recommended to pair with a wide-ranging selection of sake.

 Reminiscent of traditional Japanese inns called ryokans, the décor of Shabu Shabu is restful to both the eye and senses. Counter and table surfaces are of a satin-smooth, polished concrete, booth lighting is low, muted and conducive to relaxed conversation,   and the use of linear wood design elements calming. Upon entering the restaurant, a gallery-like presentation of Japanese masks, their brilliant colors contrasted against slate gray, sets a tone of tradition mixed with modernity.

 

References:

Diamond Jamboree: www.diamond-jamboree.com

H-Mart: www.hmart.com

85^oC Bakery Café: www.85cafe.com

SWSH Shabu Shabu: www.swshshabu.com