By Janice Nieder

Westin Lima exterior

It’s little wonder that when Westin built their spectacular 30-story hotel in Lima last year (Peru’s tallest building) they chose a superlative chef whose talents were not dwarfed by this 130 million dollar landmark. Chef Rafael Piqueras, 36, was the man for the job.

Chef Rafael Piqueras

Chef Piqueras, acknowledged as a Peruvian-fusion wunderkind, cut his culinary teeth on the likes of Italy’s Antica Osteria del Teatro and Spain’s El Celler de Can Roca, El Bulli and Giuda.

Piqueras named the restaurant, Maras, after one of his favorite ingredients, the flavorful pink salt used for centuries by villagers of Maras in Peru’s Sacred Valley region. The restaurant’s culinary standouts include Peruvian style tuna carpaccio with cushuro (a local caviar-like seaweed), 21-day-old suckling pig confit with a Greek yogurt sauce, and oxtail stuffed with foie gras. This spectacular entree is brought to the table under a silver dome, which, when removed, releases an intoxicating cloud of lavender-scented smoke.

Maras Pink Peruvian salt

Maras is sophisticated yet fun, with a festive party vibe. It is consistently filled with upscale locals and traveling foodies in-the-know. A Menu Degustation (tasting menu) proudly describes the full range of Chef Piquera’s talents. After a delightful two hour dinner, filled with one culinary surprise after another, Chef Piquera graciously sat down with me to answer some questions.

Oxtail with native potatoes

What inspired you to become a chef?

 When I was a young boy, I visited my great-grandmother on weekends. I was fascinated by the fact that although she had two maids, it was a man, Marcello, who was in charge of all the household cooking, baking and food shopping. At that time, it was rare to have a man in charge of the kitchen.

 

Were you self-taught or did you go to culinary school?

I studied at the Cordon Bleu in Lima and then in Italy. After that I was fortunate to work at some of Europe’s top restaurants including Antica Osteria del Teatro and Spain’s legendary, El Bulli.

Who is your culinary idol?

That would be Joan Roca, at El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain, both as a chef and a person. He’s the most “complete� man I know, and one of the few that can balance his work with his family life. [Author’s note: El Celler de Can Roca is one of 2012’s “The World’s 50 Best.com� restaurants.]

What is your proudest culinary achievement?

When I was only 25, I was recognized as one of the world’s top 12 chefs in the Madrid Fusión II–International Gastronomy Summit. That was very exciting.

If you couldn’t be a chef what would be?

Hmmm, I used to think I’d want to go into acting. My uncle is a famous actor.

If they make a movie about your life, who should portray Chef Rafael?

I think it should be the actor who plays Jack Bauer in 24. [Author’s side note: Chef Piqueras is a zillion times more handsome than Keifer Sutherland!]

What is your trademark saying in the kitchen?

If a dish isn’t right I will yell, “Are you trying to spoil the restaurant? Taste this! Taste this!�

Is there a signature dish you’re known for?

That would probably be my corn tart filled with oxtail ragout, but just between us, I wish I could take it off the menu because I’m soooo tired of making it.

Any easy tips for cooking at home?

If you sprinkle Maras salt on a dish before grilling, the flavors really come alive.

What is something that most people don’t know about you?

I used to be a real party boy but now I would much rather spend time with my family and go out for a quiet dinner at a steak house.

 If you could cook a meal for anyone in the world, who would it be?

 That’s easy. My wife and I just had a baby girl, Aitana. I can’t wait to start cooking for her.